Nos Vemos Pronto, Argentina

It still isn't real. It wasn't real when I said goodbye to my friends. It wasn't real when I packed up all my stuff. It wasn't real as I was making the final gift purchases to give to my family, and it still isn't real even now as I watch the clock count down the hours until my departure. Has five months really passed by already? It's happening again. My friends and family ask me how I feel about coming home and it is as complicated as ever to sort out into a few feelings.
     +I am so incredibly excited to get back to the comforts of home. Even after five months there are things that I don't understand about living here, mostly related to the public transportation systems. But hey, my last time on the bus was a pleasant one. It's incredible how much social media does for being able to communicate across the world to people, but sometimes a girl just needs to hang out with her mother. 
     +I am also devastated that this journey is over. I have never done anything like this before in my life, and I have never been away from home for this long before. But then again I have a family here too that I have to say goodbye to, and goodbyes are never easy. I am in love with the feeling of constantly discovering some new part of the city that I had no idea existed. I love setting out with a plan but not really knowing where the day would take me. I'm going to miss the little things like laughing with my Argentine mom, and having her yell at me to "Speak in Spanish, Tonta!" Discovering little hole-in-the-wall places with my friends that I would have never found alone. Being with people every single day who knew and understood my situation because they were in the exact same one. 
     +I am very nervous about coming home because you always hear those horror stories about people not caring as much as you do about your experience when all you want to do is talk about it. I know this excludes my family because they support me and are excited that I had the opportunity to study in another country, but I'm also sure that one can only hear so much about mate, fernet, and lunfardo.

Overall, I have absolutely no regrets about my time here. I've gotten to do and see everything I've wanted to, and I will be returning to the US knowing that I got to see an amazing part of the world that I will someday revisit. My experience here has been harder than anything I've had to do, and I know that although there were some bumps along the way, I got through it. I've learned to like things I never would have liked. I've become interested in things I never cared about. And most importantly, I've figured out how to be strong in moments when I really wanted to break down. I'm happy to know that my list of successes is longer than my list of failures, and I will be returning to Monmouth College with a new appreciation for learning. 

This adventure has meant so much to me, and I've gotten to know this city and the people in it very well. Everyone I met has left a mark on my heart, even those who I will never meet again. Even now, as I think about leaving tomorrow, I feel my heart swell up in disbelief that my time here is coming to an end. This city and I have had a love-hate relationship since day one, but I've discovered all my favorite things about her (with help from my friends, of course):

The best place for coffee and medialunas: La Biela 
The best and cheapest pizza: Accademia della Pizza 
The best milanesa: Tuñín
The best hot chocolate: El Gato Negro 
The best boliche: Input 
The best place for dessert: La Panera Rosa 
The best empanadas: San Juanino 
The best alcoholic drink: Clerico 
The most fun you will have in a bar: Chupitos 
The best alfajores: the homemade ones made of maizena with coconut 

I'll never forget the things I've done or the people I've met here. 

We'll meet again, Buenos Aires <3

Reflection on an Adventure

This clock is counting down, and I've never experienced such a whirlwind of emotions. I am stuck in that in-between stage where I only have a few weeks left of my semester long vacation, which is exhilarating and devastating all at once. There is this incredible pressure to go everywhere and see everything "while I still can" because before I know it I won't have the chance to eat Argentine cuisine or sip Malbec in the middle of the day. I'm trapped between longing to go home and knowing that once I return, I'll be missing this city. After I have been reunited with all the people who are important to me, and the shock of being back in my comfort zone wears off, I know I'll be craving adventure back in the small rural town of which I reside. I can imagine myself getting restless, and wanting to talk about my experiences with those who are tired of hearing about it. I will want to practice my Spanish, which now will only be possible in the classroom. 

But then again, something will be different. 
I have this feeling that I will have a new found appreciation for everything I took for granted before this experience: classes and schoolwork, driving, time with friends (actually interacting and not being on our phones), and spending time doing things that actually matter. I'm talking about going to a park to read a book or journal instead of wasting away on social media or watching Netflix. Taking walks either alone or with someone and enjoying the beautiful day. Having a sit-down dinner with your family instead of running out the door or getting fast food. Although I won't physically be in Argentina anymore, I will still embody some of the traditions and practices of taking it easy and slowing down to enjoy life's simple pleasures. 

I just wanted to reflect on what I'm truly getting out of my study abroad experience. While I'm not 100% fluent (which was an unrealistic expectation of mine) I have learned to be patient, compassionate to strangers, and just overall more friendly and outgoing. 
I think with the little time I have left, I'm going to take in all of the kindness and curiosity around me, and I think I will feel absolutely content with my experience here. 

Salt Flats and Finals

It feels to me that just yesterday I was anticipating this trip. I was organizing my clothes and assessing my financial situation. I was dreaming about the completely different world I was about to find myself in. I said in one of my early posts that I was afraid of how fast time would fly, and of course that's exactly what happened. I am down to having a little over a month left with this amazing city, and I'm determined to make the most of it.

Here's what I've been up to lately:
I went up to Northern Argentina for a couple days and experienced a whole new environment of amazing landscapes. Mountains and Salt Flats might not seem like that big of a deal, but it was the absolute contrast to the city that astonished me. When we got out of the bus to admire the beautiful rock formations, it was as if we were the only people left in the world. There were few cars that passed us; the buzzing of traffic and swarms of people were replaced by a soft silence and a lot of self-awareness. I could have sat up on the mountain, with the rays of warm sunshine and fresh air all day just enjoying the lack of movement and desperate hurry of the city. The pictures don't do it justice but I think you can get an idea of what I experienced.

I am finished with classes, which in the United States would mean that I would have a week of finals coming up and then school would be finished for the summertime. Argentinians do it a bit differently here, as with most things. My four exams, two of which are simply written papers that need to be turned in, are scattered through the month of July: 2nd, 10th, 14th, and 21st, and then my flight is scheduled to make it's way back to the motherland on July 29th. It makes it a little bit more stressful for me because I am terrible at managing my time here. It feels like I have a lifetime before having to take finals, which only exacerbates my incredible procrastination habits.

As quickly as four months flew by, my friends and I are trying to see as much more as we can in what little time we have left. Museums, restaurants, bars, neighborhoods, parks, everything. Last night we went to Puerto Madero to visit an art museum, "Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat" which housed original works by Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali. We also drank mate while walking along the Ecological Reserve (another nice little break from the city) with a stop to enjoy some delicious and much needed Choripan. 

Puerto Madero at nighttime is absolutely breathtaking, and it made me stop a think about a lot of things. I contemplated how sure a person can be of which direction they want their lives to take. Before this trip, I was convinced I was a small-town girl for life. I've grown up in towns that range from 200 people to 10,000 people and those places are where I feel most at home. I hated going to Chicago, and I would stress out about driving in cities like Peoria, Illinois. I considered that if I never would have left my comfort zone, I never would have fallen in love with the city. How a short walk or a bus ride can take you from one world and place you into another. How you could live here your whole life and still not experience everything the city has to offer. There has been times where I have felt lonely and out of place here, but having interactions with the Porteños reassures me that one can never truly be alone here. Yesterday, for example, this lady walks up behind me while waiting at the bus stop, and says (in Spanish) something about how there were a lot of people waiting in line for bus 128, in which I responded (in Spanish) or bus 127 because it's the same stop. I exuded happiness from my pores simply by making small talk to this stranger in a language that was not my own. 

For the first few months of living here, I would always get a little offended when an Argentine would ask me where I'm from seconds after opening my mouth to speak Spanish. Obviously I have a accent, but I've come to realize that isn't a bad thing, and have embraced the opportunity for carrying on conversations with the locals.

She of course asked me where I was from after my first response, and I proudly told her, "Soy de los estados unidos." And just like that, I was talking about the differences between Argentine Spanish and speaking Spanish at home without being self-conscious or worried about saying things incorrectly. She even complimented me on how well I was speaking with her. I can't even count on my hands how many times that has happened lately (especially with the trip to Salta) and every single time the kindness and curiosity of the people here surprises and captivates me. 

Friends and family keep asking if I'm ready to come home, and a lot of people are even surprised that I'm enjoying myself here. I am worried my lack of eagerness to return offends people because obviously I miss those I love. I just feel so incredibly lucky to have had this opportunity, and I'm not ready to give it up just yet. We never know what life will bring, and while I've gotten a taste of the travel bug and want to see absolutely everything, frequent world exploration may end up not being my reality. It's true that this semester has brought anxiety, stress, homesickness, worry, and other negative feelings, but it has also been the best time I've ever had in my life. There is a list a mile long of reasons why I miss the US and everyone who is there, but the fact is that in 34 days, I will inevitably be back there, so for now, I'm going to aprovechar as much as I can <3 

Observations of the Argentine Variety

In exactly two months I will be on a plane headed back to the United States. It has been exhausting, to say the least, going through just about every emotion imaginable. And just like my adviser predicted, right when you adjust and feel truly comfortable is when you will have to pack up and change scenery once more. Obviously, I am ecstatic to see each and every member of my family and all of my friends, but nothing beats the feeling of overcoming an obstacle that you once thought was impossible to overcome. Some of these difficulties were due to the immense differences in cultures that (for the most part) I have grown accustomed to, and now love.
In an effort to capture the differences of the worlds I'm stuck between, here's a list of some things I've observed here, the good and the bad.

1. Each block has restaurants, hair salons, shopping, and something to do or see.
2. I either walk or use public transportation to reach every destination.
3. In the city, things are generally more expensive because there is more to do than in a small town. But in broader sense, things are cheaper in Argentina when you're a tourist. 
4. Argentinos don't eat much for breakfast or lunch, but they will eat a large dinner much later at night.
5. It doesn't rain often, but when it does, the whole city shuts down.
6. University office hours don't exist.
7. Classes are MUCH longer, but take place fewer times per week.
8. Everyone has a dog despite the fact that there aren't many living spaces with lawns, which explains why there is always dog poop to watch out for on sidewalks.
9. There is an incredible amount of personal contact.
10. Each neighborhood and street can be a completely different world.
11. Nightclubs are more of a young persons way of going out as opposed to bars; they party until 7AM...something I have not gotten used to.
12. People can openly consume alcohol in the streets.
13. Many of the movies at the theater are in English with Spanish subtitles.
14. The people can drink a little bit of beer or wine during la siesta-before they return to their workday.
15. Everyone takes their time with everything...besides driving their vehicles. Ain't nobody got time for slow drivers or pedestrians crossing the street.
16. Being carded to consume alcohol isn't really a thing here, probably because the drinking age is 18 as opposed to 21.
17. To arrive late to anything here is common (expected) without consequences. 
18. Online shopping and receiving packages is nonexistent because it can be extremely expensive. 
19. Everyone drinks mate, all of the time. 
20. It's expensive to buy clothes here, and the quality is lower.
21. All of the younger women wear shoes with a VERY large sole.
22. The Latin American way of pronunciation and dialect in general is different.
23. The seemingly whole other language of Porteño Lunfardo.
24. Having $100 Argentine pesos as opposed to $100 American dollars.
25. There are very few "people of color" or ethnic products in the stores here. I had to learn that the hard way.
26. Many babies are simply carried in the mother's arms on transportation. I've seen very few strollers or carriers.
1. Also, women openly breast feeding while using public transportation is very common.
27. The seasons are opposite and here it seems as if there is not as harsh of a fluctuation of the seasons like at home. Right now the "winter" is more of a "delicate fall."
28. There is so much amazing street art because graffiti is legal.
29. People drink their soda with straws in the bottles here.
30. On duty police vehicles always have their lights on, and use their sirens to indicate pulling someone over.
31. The napkins often resemble a love child between tissue paper and tracing paper.
32. If you are out to eat with someone, you separate your bill on your own, no exceptions. 
33. Instead of a wide array of salad dressings, oil and vinegar is used everywhere. Which is great because I used to hate oil and vinegar and now I love it!
34. Malbec, all the time.
35. Everyone is amazingly helpful and kind, especially strangers. 
36. The main goal is to enjoy life! Or as they say, "Work to live not live to work."
37. Naps are an essential part of one's day. How else would these people stay out until the wee hours of the morning?!
38. All of the very best food (choripan, fried empanadas, etc.) come from food trucks.

I'm sure there are more and I will add them as they come to mind. <3

Happy Anniversay, Buenos Aires!

Today is my three month anniversary of being in Argentina. I arrived 90 days ago, scared, anxious, and absolutely clueless. It's funny to me because I was reading through my older posts about being here, and although I can remember exactly how I felt, I no longer can relate. Obviously, I'm not fluent, but I don't get nervous about trying to communicate in Spanish anymore. About 95% of my conversations that I have are successfully spoken and understood, and (whether they are genuine or not) I have been getting compliments about my accent.

I have done a lot since my last post, and while I don't want to downplay ANYTHING I've done, I'll try and touch a little bit on everything:

At the beginning of May, we had two girls join us from North Carolina, who have accompanied us for many adventures. They are leaving in a week or so and I just wanted to add that I've had a blast with them and I hope we stay in touch!

We began the beautiful Sunday afternoon at La Fería del Mataderos to partake in some delicious food. It was my first time having fried empanadas, and I fell in love instantly. Accompanied by a cup of sweet red wine, it was the perfect combination, but it wasn't enough. Next I had a gyro and the inevitable and irresistible choripan. At the end of our time at this market, I'm happy to say I even made a few material purchases (which is unlike me). I have been wanting to get a pair of crazy colored pants since I got here, and that's exactly what I did. I also bought a Quilmes wall hanger, and some ankle bracelets. No buyers remorse here!

This week is La Semana de Mayo which is the week of May celebrating May 25th,  the day the Revolution took place in 1810. Along with not having class and many people not having work, there are festivities happening in La Plaza de Mayo outside La Casa Rosada. Yesterday we went and there were a ton of people drinking beer and eating good food, and jammin' out to the rock band that was playing. After we enjoyed this little concert, we started making our way to the intended restaurant "Des Nivel" in San Telmo, and found this amazing drum show on the way. 

When we reached our destination, it turned out that Des Nivel had moved and turned into "Don Ernesto." The food and wine was amazing all the same. We tried locro for the first time, which is a thick stew; a national dish of Argentina. Unfortunately none of us really cared for it.

The night was ended with some drinks at "The Cycle Bar."

Saturday was spent in Colonia, Uruguay. As students, we are here on visas that are only good for 90 days, and in order to renew our visas to extend throughout our time here, we had to leave the country and re-enter. The easiest way is by taking the hour-long ferry ride over to Uruguay. This city is the polar opposite of Buenos Aires. It's one of the oldest towns in Uruguay with a population of around 27,000 people. The day was spent looking around shops, eating, and drinking medio y medio a mixture of white wine and champagne. 

The day was a tad bit chilly and it seemed that the only people around were those who were touring the city, but the trip made me nostalgic for my hometown. The traffic was minimal and it was very peaceful. Here are some highlight pictures: 

I have been diligently working on my studies, and bracing myself for my departure from this amazing world. My time left will consist of studying for finals, the four day trip to Northern Argentina, and fitting in the things that I want to accomplish before I leave. 

Onto more exciting news: in a few days my adviser and her students are coming to Buenos Aires and I wanted to give a bit of advice. It is getting colder here and I would suggest jackets, longer pants (not shorts), and scarves. The weather fluctuates a bit so dress in layers. I would advise against flip flops or sandals and suggest a closed toed shoe of some kind. I usually wear my canvas shoes when there is going to be a lot of walking. Spending money is going to depend on how much you want to do and buy. An average meal costs about $100 pesos, extra if you want drinks and dessert. You can get souvenirs pretty cheap here, but that also depends on the authenticity, etc. My friend just bought a really nice leather belt for $200 pesos (about $23 US dollars). I advise focusing more on the experience than the material items, however.

Some restaurants that I've been to that I like are:

Abasto Grille, Cafe Tortoni, Don Ignacio, Las Violetas, Don Ernesto, Cumaná, Miranda (not just because of the beautiful name).

If you have any specific questions, don't hesitate to ask and I'll see you all in a few days! 

Mate and Me Time

I'm curious as to what exactly is the formula for balancing loneliness. Sometimes, you just need your space; you need time for yourself and your thoughts once in awhile. But how much time does one actually need on their own? 

These past few days have been incredibly bitter-sweet. The majority of people who I have grown accustomed to spending my time with are enjoying their Semana Santa in Mendoza. I made the decision to stay home, relax, and enjoy spending time in the city. The main objective was to complete a large chunk of my school assignments, but those were unfortunately passed up for some QT with Netflix. 

When I wasn't distracting myself from my responsibilities with Grey's Anatomy, I was trying mate for the first time with my friend Alexis. We went to this restaurant, Cumaná, in the barrio (neighborhood) of Recoleta (which I would like to visit again). Primarily, I fell in love with the atmosphere, and then I fell in love with the mate tradition. Now, you have to remember that this was two norteamericanas trying mate, so I'm assuming that we didn't do everything how an Argentine would, but I felt lucky just to get to have the experience. 

There is a pot of hot water, and one mate gourd which is passed back and forth. There is etiquette, but I'm not really aware of what it is yet. All I know is that I really like the drink itself. It has a very dominating earthy flavor, but I enjoyed learning about and sharing the tradition.

Saturday night, Alexis and I went out again to the barrio of Palermo. We met at Plazo Serrano and when we arrived it was filled with vendors selling clothes and other items. We walked around the area for awhile scoping out our options when we settled on a simple restaurant, Mole Bar, with festive Marilyn Monroe decorations. Afterwards, ice cream at Freddo-of course. 

While I had a great time, I couldn't help but feel like I kind of wasted my break "relaxing." I realize that there is so much time for me to go and see everything that I want to here in Buenos Aires, but at the same time, I don't want to waste a single second. So today I woke up and ventured to Café Tortoni for lunch. 

After waiting in a line for about 20 minutes to get in, I realized that while Café Tortoni was a bit of a tourist destination, there was a reason: it was beautiful and definitely worth it. After I was seated at my table for one, I received my food 5 minutes after I ordered it, no exaggeration. Everyone around me was taking pictures and meeting their friends for lunch. I enjoyed my time eating, drinking my café helado-capuchino (iced coffee cappuccino) and accomplishing some writing. After some small talk with the waiter I decided it was time to go for a walk on this gorgeous day. I ended up going back to San Telmo and walked for miles looking at amazing hand-crafted items. I also found this separate fair where everything was made out of recycled materials. 

Loneliness is really a funny thing because even though I was by myself today, it's hard to be alone in this city. I was sitting at the table at Café Tortoni without friends or family to keep me company, yet I engaged in conversation with the waiter about where I'm from and the fact that his sister lives in New York left me with a feeling of comfort. And although I don't know any of the people who were dancing and clapping in the streets of San Telmo, I couldn't help but feel apart of something as I joined in. 

And just like that, I was no longer alone.

Happy Easter, everyone. 

Iguazu!....Bless You

Before I went on the trip to the waterfalls of Iguazú, I was feeling awfully "homesick." It wasn't that I was missing my "home" but I was missing all the people in my life that make me feel at home. I was suffering from a bit of culture shock and I was longing for all the things that made sense to me. Some days I feel empowered and alive tackling challenges that come with studying in a Spanish-speaking country. There are also those unavoidable days of feeling defeated and unqualified to navigate in a world without my support system.

The cure, apparently, was traveling on a bus for numerous hours, with strangers from all over the world who like drinking as much as I do. I was able to meet so many amazing people from a multitude of different places, and I realized that as long as I have people around me with whom I can laugh with, make memories with, and have fun with...I am home.
Viola, homesickness cured. Ever since I got to witness one of the natural wonders of the world with people who have already left an impression on my heart, I can't help but feel like the luckiest human in the world. I can't describe how beautiful the waterfalls are, so here are some pictures instead (which still do not do them justice):

In the morning it was cloudy and a bit chilly, which was nice when we were doing a lot of walking so it wasn't as hot. And then while we were journeying to "La Garganta de Diablo" The Devil's Throat the sun came out as well as this wonderful rainbow.

The rest of the trip was spent reading by the pool, and riding on the bus back home. As I came back I realized that venturing out of the city for 5 days had actually made me miss the sound of traffic honking aggressively outside my window and the hustle and bustle of people on the streets. This place has become my home, and I couldn't wait to return to it although I had an amazing time. 

Which leads me to the realization that there is no one "home." Home is where you can make deep connections with the people and your surroundings. I realized that while everyone back home is extremely important to me, I will only get to cultivate relationships here for four more months. 

This past weekend, I went to a fiesta called PM Open Air, located in Punta Currasco. They played electronic music and there were so many people dancing! While it was fun, we got tired out very fast, went to a late dinner, and I went home and went to bed "early" around midnight. Then on Sunday, I went to La Feria de los Mataderos. There were so many people selling all kinda of items, and most importantly, there was so much food! I tried choripan for the first time (sasauge with chimichurri sauce on bread)...I also ate churros, vacipan, and icecream. It was undoubtedly a fantastic day of feasting. 

Yesterday, there was a transportation strike and all the buses and subways were not functioning. So after I missed the only class I looked forward to going to, I went on a picnic with my German friend, Jessi. It was a perfect day to sit on a blanket and eat tapas. 

Other than that, this week I only had class until Wednesday, because Thursday and Friday is a holiday, Semana Santa or Easter. Many people are going to a trip to Mendoza, but I'm going to explore other things in the city that I haven't gotten to yet...in addition to doing my homework. This was a hard financial decision to make due to the fact that many of Argentina's wines are produced in Mendoza and there will be tastings, of which I am the biggest fan.