Saturday, May 30, 2015

Observations of the Argentine Variety

In exactly two months I will be on a plane headed back to the United States. It has been exhausting, to say the least, going through just about every emotion imaginable. And just like my adviser predicted, right when you adjust and feel truly comfortable is when you will have to pack up and change scenery once more. Obviously, I am ecstatic to see each and every member of my family and all of my friends, but nothing beats the feeling of overcoming an obstacle that you once thought was impossible to overcome. Some of these difficulties were due to the immense differences in cultures that (for the most part) I have grown accustomed to, and now love.
In an effort to capture the differences of the worlds I'm stuck between, here's a list of some things I've observed here, the good and the bad.
  1. Each block has restaurants, hair salons, shopping, and something to do or see.
  2. I either walk or use public transportation to reach every destination.
  3. In the city, things are generally more expensive because there is more to do than in a small town. But in broader sense, things are cheaper in Argentina when you're a tourist. 
  4. Argentinos don't eat much for breakfast or lunch, but they will eat a large dinner much later at night.
  5. It doesn't rain often, but when it does, the whole city shuts down.
  6. University office hours don't exist.
  7. Classes are MUCH longer, but take place fewer times per week.
  8. Everyone has a dog despite the fact that there aren't many living spaces with lawns, which explains why there is always dog poop to watch out for on sidewalks.
  9. There is an incredible amount of personal contact.
  10. Each neighborhood and street can be a completely different world.
  11. Nightclubs are more of a young persons way of going out as opposed to bars; they party until 7AM...something I have not gotten used to.
  12. People can openly consume alcohol in the streets.
  13. Many of the movies at the theater are in English with Spanish subtitles.
  14. The people can drink a little bit of beer or wine during la siesta-before they return to their workday.
  15. Everyone takes their time with everything...besides driving their vehicles. Ain't nobody got time for slow drivers or pedestrians crossing the street.
  16. Being carded to consume alcohol isn't really a thing here, probably because the drinking age is 18 as opposed to 21.
  17. To arrive late to anything here is common (expected) without consequences. 
  18. Online shopping and receiving packages is nonexistent because it can be extremely expensive. 
  19. Everyone drinks mate, all of the time. 
  20. It's expensive to buy clothes here, and the quality is lower.
  21. All of the younger women wear shoes with a VERY large sole.
  22. The Latin American way of pronunciation and dialect in general is different.
  23. The seemingly whole other language of Porteño Lunfardo.
  24. Having $100 Argentine pesos as opposed to $100 American dollars.
  25. There are very few "people of color" or ethnic products in the stores here. I had to learn that the hard way.
  26. Many babies are simply carried in the mother's arms on transportation. I've seen very few strollers or carriers.
    1. Also, women openly breast feeding while using public transportation is very common.
  27. The seasons are opposite and here it seems as if there is not as harsh of a fluctuation of the seasons like at home. Right now the "winter" is more of a "delicate fall."
  28. There is so much amazing street art because graffiti is legal.
  29. People drink their soda with straws in the bottles here.
  30. On duty police vehicles always have their lights on, and use their sirens to indicate pulling someone over.
  31. The napkins often resemble a love child between tissue paper and tracing paper.
  32. If you are out to eat with someone, you separate your bill on your own, no exceptions. 
  33. Instead of a wide array of salad dressings, oil and vinegar is used everywhere. Which is great because I used to hate oil and vinegar and now I love it!
  34. Malbec, all the time.
  35. Everyone is amazingly helpful and kind, especially strangers. 
  36. The main goal is to enjoy life! Or as they say, "Work to live not live to work."
  37. Naps are an essential part of one's day. How else would these people stay out until the wee hours of the morning?!
  38. All of the very best food (choripan, fried empanadas, etc.) come from food trucks.
I'm sure there are more and I will add them as they come to mind. <3

Monday, May 25, 2015

Happy Anniversay, Buenos Aires!

Today is my three month anniversary of being in Argentina. I arrived 90 days ago, scared, anxious, and absolutely clueless. It's funny to me because I was reading through my older posts about being here, and although I can remember exactly how I felt, I no longer can relate. Obviously, I'm not fluent, but I don't get nervous about trying to communicate in Spanish anymore. About 95% of my conversations that I have are successfully spoken and understood, and (whether they are genuine or not) I have been getting compliments about my accent.
I have done a lot since my last post, and while I don't want to downplay ANYTHING I've done, I'll try and touch a little bit on everything:
At the beginning of May, we had two girls join us from North Carolina, who have accompanied us for many adventures. They are leaving in a week or so and I just wanted to add that I've had a blast with them and I hope we stay in touch!

We began the beautiful Sunday afternoon at La Fería del Mataderos to partake in some delicious food. It was my first time having fried empanadas, and I fell in love instantly. Accompanied by a cup of sweet red wine, it was the perfect combination, but it wasn't enough. Next I had a gyro and the inevitable and irresistible choripan. At the end of our time at this market, I'm happy to say I even made a few material purchases (which is unlike me). I have been wanting to get a pair of crazy colored pants since I got here, and that's exactly what I did. I also bought a Quilmes wall hanger, and some ankle bracelets. No buyers remorse here!

This week is La Semana de Mayo which is the week of May celebrating May 25th,  the day the Revolution took place in 1810. Along with not having class and many people not having work, there are festivities happening in La Plaza de Mayo outside La Casa Rosada. Yesterday we went and there were a ton of people drinking beer and eating good food, and jammin' out to the rock band that was playing. After we enjoyed this little concert, we started making our way to the intended restaurant "Des Nivel" in San Telmo, and found this amazing drum show on the way. 
When we reached our destination, it turned out that Des Nivel had moved and turned into "Don Ernesto." The food and wine was amazing all the same. We tried locro for the first time, which is a thick stew; a national dish of Argentina. Unfortunately none of us really cared for it.
The night was ended with some drinks at "The Cycle Bar."

Saturday was spent in Colonia, Uruguay. As students, we are here on visas that are only good for 90 days, and in order to renew our visas to extend throughout our time here, we had to leave the country and re-enter. The easiest way is by taking the hour-long ferry ride over to Uruguay. This city is the polar opposite of Buenos Aires. It's one of the oldest towns in Uruguay with a population of around 27,000 people. The day was spent looking around shops, eating, and drinking medio y medio a mixture of white wine and champagne. 
The day was a tad bit chilly and it seemed that the only people around were those who were touring the city, but the trip made me nostalgic for my hometown. The traffic was minimal and it was very peaceful. Here are some highlight pictures: 














I have been diligently working on my studies, and bracing myself for my departure from this amazing world. My time left will consist of studying for finals, the four day trip to Northern Argentina, and fitting in the things that I want to accomplish before I leave. 

Onto more exciting news: in a few days my adviser and her students are coming to Buenos Aires and I wanted to give a bit of advice. It is getting colder here and I would suggest jackets, longer pants (not shorts), and scarves. The weather fluctuates a bit so dress in layers. I would advise against flip flops or sandals and suggest a closed toed shoe of some kind. I usually wear my canvas shoes when there is going to be a lot of walking. Spending money is going to depend on how much you want to do and buy. An average meal costs about $100 pesos, extra if you want drinks and dessert. You can get souvenirs pretty cheap here, but that also depends on the authenticity, etc. My friend just bought a really nice leather belt for $200 pesos (about $23 US dollars). I advise focusing more on the experience than the material items, however.
Some restaurants that I've been to that I like are:
Abasto Grille, Cafe Tortoni, Don Ignacio, Las Violetas, Don Ernesto, Cumaná, Miranda (not just because of the beautiful name).
If you have any specific questions, don't hesitate to ask and I'll see you all in a few days!